A pensive Eric but what a view
At nine in the morning and in the pouring rain, we rode the bikes to Sydney (N.S.), 125 km from River Bourgeois. They were both due for an oil change & filter. By 12:30 we were all done and decided to have a look at The Fortress of Louisbourg, 32 km from town.
It is a National Historic Site of Canada and the location of a one-quarter partial reconstruction of an 18th-century French fortress at Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia. Its two sieges, especially that of 1758, were turning points in the Anglo-French struggle for what today is Canada. The fortifications eventually surrounded the town. The walls were constructed mainly between 1720 and 1740. By the mid-1740s Louisbourg was one of the most extensive (and expensive) European fortifications constructed in North America. The rain would not let up, the wind was howling and stirring up huge waves crashing against the foggy rocks on the shore. A drenched muddy road leads up to the reconstructed town, where we were pretty well the only visitors. We both resembled the Michelin man but without the smile. Even though we were quadruple layered including raingear, somehow water can find its way down to your crotch. The duck tape on my boots had long worn out its effectiveness, letting cold water seep in.
Waddling around like the Yeti quickly turned into disinterest and we made our way back to the house where Delores was already cooking mussels. The mechanic at the shop had sung the praises of the local snow crab and having mentioned this to Delores she immediately got on the phone to order some. We went to get 3 monsters; they came with a gallon of seawater to cook them in.
Talk about flavour! The tastiest crab I’ve ever sunk my teeth in, came doused in garlic butter.
Contrary to the weatherman’s promises we awoke under cloudy skies. Could it be that the Nova Scotia sunshine forecast means ‘no rain’? Well, at least it was dry when we bid Delores adieu and set off direction Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail. She had received us with open arms and doted over us for 2 days. Thanks so much Delores for your hospitality!
View from the garden of Delores
I’ve come to know that if it doesn’t rain for 3 days in a row, the provincial government declares a drought. It was still cold but we were dressed for it. The electric vest kept me nice & toasty.
The Cabot Trail is in fact no trail at all but a 2-lane winding highway as smooth as a baby’s bum. The route measures 298 km (185 mi) in length and completes a loop around the northern tip of the island, passing along and through the scenic Cape Breton Highlands.
There are hiking trails leading off the main road. A little more than ¾ into the “trail” we found a campground perched on top of a hill overlooking the ocean.
The campground offers fresh oysters for dinner. For breakfast and lunch you have a choice of fresh oysters. They also serve beer but they can only sell you one if you order oysters. I’m not kidding! They have a license to serve beer with food only. It is supposed to stay dry until Saturday and we will make the most of it.